Canberra to Cann River and back

September 2018

“It is not a failure to readjust my sails to fit the waters I find myself in.” - Mackenzi Lee

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It'd been a fair while since I'd gone for a ride, with a long stretch of work to do - so it was nice to be back on the road. I rode off from Queanbeyan and stopped off at one of my favourite pubs for lunch - The Loaded Dog hotel. It's nice to be recognised when you walk in and I sat for a while with a pizza before the lunch travellers come in.


Rode on to Ulladulla through familiar bushland roads and have an entrée meal there, saw a beautiful full moon with lots of blue and a walk along a river beach.

Rode on to Eden. I'd have liked to ride some of the beautiful smaller roads to Eden but time was short and I wanted to enjoy being in Eden, so I rode the Pacific Highway - I hadn't ridden that stretch of the Pacific Highway before and it was a nice ride.


Arriving at my cabin in Eden, came across a couple kangaroos hanging out next door.


Rode on the next morning to Mallacoota, a beautiful spot right down the bottom corner of Australia in Victoria surrounded by 87,500 hectares of Croajingolong National Park. It's got a rocking road to get to it. It also has the largest caravan park in southern hemisphere. It’s beautiful enough that I'll have to stay there sometime, it looks beautiful.

I had lunch there and rode on to Cann River.

There are two places in the world I find perfectly relaxing in a complete way. One is the Lincoln Memorial sitting between the first two columns to the right of the staircase looking out over the reflecting pool in Washington DC. That location resonates uniquely well with me, I love it there.

The other place is sitting alone on the balcony of the Cann River Hotel pub with a beer over sunset watching the small town shut down for the night and listening to the birds in the darkening bush forest. It is beautiful and peaceful as well as the only other place I’ve found that unique feeling.

Unfortunately, the Cann River Hotel pub recently closed it’s old fashioned pub-style accommodation due to the council’s fire regulations, so I’d decided to ride to Cann RIver to take in the place for a couple of days and say goodbye to it in a sense.

Rounding the last corner into Cann River, I was surprised to see extensive roadworks.


A large roundabout was being built, street lights were being installed, footpaths, parking bays and other modernisation in the classically small town. While it’s certainly safer, it was a pity to see this the main road of this beautiful natural town ripped up and made into a government sanctioned modern roadway:

So I checked into the motel next door, walked around to have a look, had a beer in the Cann River hotel and bought some dinner.


The Cann River hotel has a staircase that was salvaged from the HMS Riverina which was shipwrecked in 1927:

I picked up a beer and sat out the front of the motel while the town shut down for the night.


A generator was running all night running lights illuminating the street and roundabout but some ingredients were still there - the birds in the bush forest as the sun went down, the occasional isolated car or truck driving through.

A couple days later I rode up through Coopracambra National Park towards Canberra, stopping for a coffee on the way at a pretty cafe I often stop at when riding up this way.


The road from Cooma to Canberra has long straight runs with slow but intensive inclines that feel like that last forever. I don't know why but my bike which runs beautifully normally, nearly always complains about this stretch coughing occasionally and feeling a bit fuel-starved. It’s an unusual trait on this road but still a lovely approach into Canberra.

Thanks for reading!

Nic Jankovic